Embrace Retinoids (Part One)

What is the difference between retinol, retinoid and retinoic acid?

• Retinol
  • Retinol is a sub-type of retinoid
  • Retinols typically have a lower irritancy factor than retinoic acid since your body will be required to convert it in two steps to the retinoic acid that it needs
  • It can take a little longer to see the benefits than with retinoic acid, but because of its lower irritancy on the skin, and as it does not need a prescription, this makes it worth the trade-off

• Retinoid
  • It takes retinoid one less step than retinol to break down into retinoic acid, making  retinoid a more potent ingredient than retinol
  • Comes in the form of topical serums, creams or gels and is often combined with other antioxidant ingredients for added benefits and efficacy
  • Retinaldehyde falls in this category and can also be found over the counter

• Retinoic Acid
  • This is usually only available by prescription and comes in varying concentrations
  • Can be way more irritating on our skin than the previous two formulation options
  • This falls in the category of tretinoin, and includes adapalene (which also treats acne)
  • Already in its active form; mild irritation, redness, peeling and dryness may be experienced on first starting out with this product

‍

Whichever form you use, retinoid is advised only to be used in the evenings (out of the sunlight). Sunlight, especially UV rays, can degrade the retinoid, reducing its effectiveness. Additionally, new skin cells produced by the chosen retinoid option are more vulnerable to burning, if not protected from the sun. Using your retinoid correctly is of utmost importance to minimize irritation while maximizing their benefits. Here is how to use your retinoid:

1. Go low and start slow: If you're new to retinoids, start with a lower concentration (such as 0.25% or 0.5%) and use it every other night or just a few times in a week (for the first few weeks) to allow your skin to acclimate and adjust to this new ingredient.
   ‍
2. Night-time use only: Apply retinoids only at night, as they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always use sunscreen during the day when using retinoids.
   ‍
3. Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize: Retinoids can often cause dryness, redness, peeling or irritation, so use a moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated. Most people find it helpful to apply a moisturizer just before and again after the retinoid application to reduce irritation (also known as the sandwich method).
   ‍
4. Avoid using with other strong actives: Avoid using retinoids in combination with other harsh active ingredients like vitamin C or products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which can lead to increased irritation and discomfort on your skin.

‍

Be very diligent to consistently wear your sunscreen every daytime. Apply adequate amounts of sunscreen on your exposed skin and re-apply every two hours if you are outdoors and/or perspiring. Train yourself to always be sun-protective (wear your hats) and sun smart (seek the shade). Your skin will thank you for these deliberate habits, and you will be rewarded with skin that looks and feels radiant, firm and youthful for a long time to come.