“Retinoids are the cornerstone of anti-aging skincare. They promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin texture, resulting in a smoother, more radiant complexion.”

- Dr Zein Obagi

Retinoids are so important to your skincare regime that we are continuing with a second part on this topic.  

They are in a class of Vitamin A, an essential vitamin for your body and skin – and considered one of the most effective ingredients for promoting skin health, treating various skin concerns, and turning back the hands of time. In the skin, it helps brighten it up, normalize skin cell turnover, and improve collagen production. In the scalp, it can help with hair growth.

Man assesses his smooth jawline at a medical aesthetic clinic Singapore and skin aesthetic clinic Dempsey for customised skin care

Here are the many benefits and why you would want to incorporate this retinoid ingredient into your at-home skincare regimen:

Boosts collagen production:

  • Firmness and elasticity - Retinoids stimulate collagen and elastin production in the skin. Collagen is a vital protein that provides structure, elasticity, and firmness. As we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to a laxity of skin and increased wrinkles. Retinoids help maintain collagen levels, making the skin look firmer and more youthful.

Improves skin texture and tone:

  • Exfoliating effect - Retinoids promote cell turnover; they help shed dead skin cells on the surface and encourage the production of new ones. This process helps smooth the skin’s texture, making it look more even and radiant. It also offers a micro-peeling effect.
  • Fades hyperpigmentation - Retinoids can decrease pigment production, help fade dark spots, sunspots, and acne scars by speeding up the turnover of skin cells and preventing the buildup of melanin (the pigment that causes dark spots).

Array of retinol serums displayed at a medical beauty clinic and aesthetic skin medispa Singapore combining medical aesthetics with personal skincare

Reduces fine lines and wrinkles:

  • Anti-aging - Retinoids are often considered one of the most potent anti-aging ingredients. By stimulating collagen and elastin production, they help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes, mouth, cheeks and forehead.
  • Prevents new wrinkles - Regular use of retinoids can help prevent the formation of new wrinkles by keeping the skin's cells actively regenerating.
  • Decreases degradation of collagen - Retinoids help decrease the breakdown of existing collagen by inhibiting enzymes that cause this breakdown – the enzyme of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP).

Combats acne:

  • Unclogs pores - Retinoids can help prevent acne by unclogging pores and reducing the buildup of dead skin cells that can contribute to breakouts. They also regulate the production of sebum in the skin, which helps prevent acne.
  • Reduces inflammation - Retinoids do have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce the redness and swelling associated with acne.
  • Treats cystic acne - Retinoids are often prescribed for more severe forms of acne, such as cystic acne, because they help promote skin turnover and reduce acne-causing bacteria.

Improves skin tone and clarity:

  • Brightens the skin - As retinoids help with cell turnover, they can give your skin a brighter and more even complexion. The shedding of old, dull skin cells helps reveal fresher, younger-looking skin.
  • Helps with hyperpigmentation - Retinoids can help fade age spots, sun damage, and melasma by breaking down melanin in the skin and promoting the growth of new, clearer skin.

Reduces enlarged pores:

  • Pore size - By promoting skin renewal and unclogging pores, retinoids can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, leading to more even, smoother-looking skin.

Improves skin hydration:

  • Enhances moisture retention - While retinoids can initially cause dryness and irritation, over time they help improve the skin's ability to retain moisture by boosting collagen production and supporting the skin’s barrier function. This leads to healthier, more hydrated skin in the long term by preventing the loss of water through the skin; commonly known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Treats certain skin conditions:

  • Psoriasis and Keratosis Pilaris - Retinoids are sometimes used to treat conditions like psoriasis (a chronic skin condition that causes red, scaly patches) and keratosis pilaris (small, rough bumps on the skin) because they promote faster skin cell turnover and prevent the build-up of dead skin cells. Both glycolic acid and lactic acid can aid in this function as well.
  • Sun damage repair - Retinoids can help reverse some of the visible damage caused by a lifetime of ultraviolet (UV) exposure, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

Side effects and special considerations:

  • Irritation - Retinoids can cause initial irritation, including dryness, redness and peeling. This is normal and usually subsides as your skin adjusts and acclimates to the new ingredient.
  • Sun sensitivity - Retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, so it’s crucial to wear sunscreen every day to avoid any sunburn or skin barrier damage.
  • Pregnancy - Retinoids, including the oral forms like isotretinoin, should be avoided during pregnancy, as they can cause birth defects.

Retinoids are incredibly effective for improving the appearance and health of your skin. Whether you may be targeting signs of aging, dealing with acne, or looking to improve your skin texture and tone, retinoids are a powerful tool in the arsenal of skincare choices. Just be sure to use them carefully, and remember to go low in retinoid strength and start super slow if you are new to this very potently effective ingredient.